Frequently Asked Questions
What is involved in upgrading an AT1800/AT2000/AT3000
Series amplifier to a unit with more channels?
The
AT1800/AT2000/AT3000 Series amplifiers can be upgraded with more channels, but
only within the same family. For example, an AT1802 can be upgraded to
anywhere from an AT1803 to an AT1807. An AT 3005 can be upgraded to an AT3006 or an
AT3007. What this means is that if you purchase a 5 channel amp today and down
the road to want to upgrade it to a 7 channel unit, you can do that.
However, series cannot be upgraded, e.g. an AT1800 series amplifier cannot be
changed to an AT2000 or an AT3000 series unit.
Units
must be shipped back to the factory for the upgrade. The conversion is not
designed to be done by the owner. In addition to amplifier modules being
added, transformers and back panels may need to be replaced, based on the
particular model and conversion required.
In
addition, to the cost of the upgrade, the client is also responsible for
shipping charges both ways. If and when you need to upgrade, contact us
directly (not the factory) to initiate the process.
If my speakers are rated at 150 watts, does that
mean that a 180 watt amplifier is not the correct choice?
Not necessarily. A 180 watt amplifier simply means that
the unit can output that much power, not that it will do so all the time. If
you have speakers that can handle less power than the amplifier's maximum,
that is fine. Just do not turn the volume control on your preamp/processor
all the way up. The extra power capability will come in handy when you
upgrade you speakers. It is also better to have an amplifier that has more
power handling capability than not enough; this can prevent clipping and
distortion when driven to brief, loud levels such as in DVD action/adventure
movies (crashes, gunfire, explosions etc).
I need a home theater power amplifier - what would you
recommend?
Our most popular home theater amplifiers are the AT2005
and AT2007 (200 watts per channel). For a true home theater, you need at
least a 5 channel system and newer 7 channel systems are coming into play.
Remember that a 2005 can be upgraded to a 2007 (although it will cost you
more compared to having purchased a 2007 at the onset).
If you want to save $ today and will be happy with a 5
channel system for the next year or two, then choose the 2005. If you want
to go with the best, know that you will be upgrading to a 7 channel system
within the next 24 months or do not want to deal with the extra cost and
hassle of shipping and upgrading the amp at a later date, then go with
the 2007.
If you have inefficient speakers, very large home
theater, like to listen to your movies/music at extremely loud listen levels
or just want the top-of the-line unit, then choose the AT3000 300 watts per
channel series (3005 or 3007).
The AT1800 series (180 watts per channel) provide an
extremely good value for the cost conscience. If this is your first home
theater power amplifier and you are on a tight budget, the 1805 or 1807
would be the way to go. They sound great, have lots of power and make a huge
difference over the limitations of a (home theater) receiver with their
lower output levels and other power amplifier compromises.
The AT2505 is also a great choice for those that want a
monster of a 5 channel amplifier. If you want a lot of power (250 watts per
channel) and 5 channels is all that you will ever need, then the 2505 is an
excellent choice.
In addition to home theater, I also listen to music - how well will your
amplifiers work in that application?
Our amplifiers are very accurate, sound clean and have
plenty of reserve power. Many of our clients do listen to both music and
home theater with their ATI amplifiers and enjoy them tremendously in either
scenario.
All I listen to is music and/or movies from 2 speakers
- what would you suggest in this situation?
If music is all that you listen to and you only require a
2 channel amplifier, then the AT602 (60 watts per channel) is a very nice
and affordable unit. The AT1202 (120 watts per channel) would be for those
that like to listen to their music really loud and want more power.
If you also listen to movies and just have a 2 channel
set up, then the AT1202 or AT1502 (150 watts per channel) would be the way
to go. Note that the 3 models mentioned above cannot be upgraded in terms of
number of channels.
My speakers are rated at a "nominal 4 ohms" or "nominal 8 ohms" . What does
this mean and will your amplifier work satisfactorily with my speakers?
The impedance of speakers changes slightly over
frequency. A speaker rated at 8 ohms will actually vary slightly over the 20
Hz to 20 KHz range. Therefore there speaker manufacturers give a nominal
impedance so as to give an approximate value. Sometimes this figure may be
given at a specified frequency, e.g. 8 ohms at 1 KHz. Your 4 or 8 ohm
speakers will work just fine with the various ATI amplifiers. There are no
switches or settings that need to be adjusted for the particular impedance
of your speaker. Just connect them and enjoy!
Does each amplifier module have its own power supply?
Each amplifier comes with two separate transformers. Each
amplifier has its own power supply, i.e. bridge rectifiers, smoothing
capacitors etc. These independent power supplies are fed from individual
secondary windings from the transformers. This results in excellent channel
separation, i.e. the individual channels do not "talk" to each other.
What type of AC plug comes on the end of the power cord and what amperage
circuit do I need?
All of the 1800 and 2000 series amplifiers come with a
regular 15 amp AC plug that plugs into a regular 15 amp house-hold wall
receptacle. The 3000 series amplifiers come with 20 amp plug. However the
3002-3005 only require a regular 15 amp house-hold wall receptacle. The 3006
and 3007 require a 20 amp receptacle/circuit.
I notice that some of your amplifiers have balanced input. When would it be
advisable to use the balanced inputs?
Only the 2000 and 3000 series amplifiers have balanced
inputs in addition to single ended inputs (RCA). If you are like most folks
where the amplifier and preamp will be within a short distance of each other
and you will be using interconnect cables less than several tens of feet,
then RCA cables will typically be just fine. If the cables are going to be
several hundred feet long, then you may want to consider using the balanced
inputs with the appropriate cables as this can help to reduce noise pickup
on "long" cables.
How do I control the AT6012 multiroom amplifier and which wall
plates/switches are you compatible with?
The AT6012 multiroom amplifier is controlled by a simple
momentary rocker switch, such as the LevitonŽ 5657-2E. The switch is
connected to the amplifier via a 3 conductor cable. The rocker switch (one
switch per room) has the ability to increase and decrease the volume thus
allowing each room to have its own independent volume control.
What kind of output trigger is provided on the
processors to be able to turn on and off other devices such as power
amplifiers?
A switched DC output is provided via a 3.5 mm (1/8") jack
that becomes "live" with 12 volts when the processor is turned on and drops
to 0 volts when the processor is turned off. This source of 12 volts DC
would typically be used to turn an amplifier on and off. Make sure to use a
mono (not stereo) 3.5 mm (1/8") plug to plug into the jack. The wires from
the plug can be a small gauge (18 AWG to 26 AWG) as minimal current is
involved. The wires would then connect to the device that is looking for
this source of switched 12 volts DC, e.g. the input trigger on an ATI
amplifier.
What kind of input trigger is provided on the
amplifiers such that the amplifier can be turned on and off by other
devices?
A 3.5 mm (1/8") input jack is provided that requires 12
volts DC to turn the amplifier on and 0 volts when the amplifier is to be
turned off. This source of 12 volts DC would typically come from the output
trigger of a preamplifier or processor. Make sure to use a mono (not stereo)
3.5 mm (1/8") plug to plug into the jack. The wires from the plug can be a
small gauge (18 AWG to 26 AWG) as minimal current is involved. The wires
would then connect back to the device that is providing the switched source
of 12 volts DC, e.g. the output trigger from an ATI amplifier.