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Frequently Asked Questions


What is involved in upgrading an AT1800/AT2000/AT3000 Series amplifier to a unit with more channels?

The AT1800/AT2000/AT3000 Series amplifiers can be upgraded with more channels, but only within the same family. For example, an AT1802 can be upgraded to anywhere from an AT1803 to an AT1807. An AT 3005 can be upgraded to an AT3006 or an AT3007. What this means is that if you purchase a 5 channel amp today and down the road to want to upgrade it to a 7 channel unit, you can do that. However, series cannot be upgraded, e.g. an AT1800 series amplifier cannot be changed to an AT2000 or an AT3000 series unit.

Units must be shipped back to the factory for the upgrade. The conversion is not designed to be done by the owner. In addition to amplifier modules being added, transformers and back panels may need to be replaced, based on the particular model and conversion required.

In addition, to the cost of the upgrade, the client is also responsible for shipping charges both ways. If and when you need to upgrade, contact ATI directly to initiate the process.


If my speakers are rated at 150 watts, does that mean that a 180 watt amplifier is not the correct choice?

Not necessarily. A 180 watt amplifier simply means that the unit can output that much power, not that it will do so all the time. If you have speakers that can handle less power than the amplifier's maximum, that is fine. Just do not turn the volume control on your preamp/processor all the way up. The extra power capability will come in handy when you upgrade you speakers. It is also better to have an amplifier that has more power handling capability than not enough; this can prevent clipping and distortion when driven to brief, loud levels such as in DVD action/adventure movies (crashes, gunfire, explosions etc).


I need a home theater power amplifier - what would you recommend?

Our most popular home theater amplifiers are the AT2005 and AT2007 (200 watts per channel). For a true home theater, you need at least a 5 channel system and newer 7 channel systems are coming into play. Remember that a 2005 can be upgraded to a 2007 (although it will cost you more compared to having purchased a 2007 at the onset).

If you want to save $ today and will be happy with a 5 channel system for the next year or two, then choose the 2005. If you want to go with the best, know that you will be upgrading to a 7 channel system within the next 24 months or do not want to deal with the extra cost and hassle of shipping and upgrading the amp at  a later date, then go with the 2007.

If you have inefficient speakers, very large home theater, like to listen to your movies/music at extremely loud listen levels or just want the top-of the-line unit, then choose the AT3000 300 watts per channel series (3005 or 3007).

The AT1800 series (180 watts per channel) provide an extremely good value for the cost conscience. If this is your first home theater power amplifier and you are on a tight budget, the 1805 or 1807 would be the way to go. They sound great, have lots of power and make a huge difference over the limitations of a (home theater) receiver with their lower output levels and other power amplifier compromises.

The AT2505 is also a great choice for those that want a monster of a 5 channel amplifier. If you want a lot of power (250 watts per channel) and 5 channels is all that you will ever need, then the 2505 is an excellent choice.


In addition to home theater, I also listen to music - how well will your amplifiers work in that application?

Our amplifiers are very accurate, sound clean and have plenty of reserve power. Many of our clients do listen to both music and home theater with their ATI amplifiers and enjoy them tremendously in either scenario.
 

All I listen to is music and/or movies from 2 speakers - what would you suggest in this situation?

If music is all that you listen to and you only require a 2 channel amplifier, then the AT602 (60 watts per channel) is a very nice and affordable unit. The AT1202 (120 watts per channel) would be for those that like to listen to their music really loud and want more power.

If you also listen to movies and just have a 2 channel set up, then the AT1202 or AT1502 (150 watts per channel) would be the way to go. Note that the 3 models mentioned above cannot be upgraded in terms of number of channels.


My speakers are rated at a "nominal 4 ohms" or "nominal 8 ohms" . What does this mean and will your amplifier work satisfactorily with my speakers?

The impedance of speakers changes slightly over frequency. A speaker rated at 8 ohms will actually vary slightly over the 20 Hz to 20 KHz range. Therefore there speaker manufacturers give a nominal impedance so as to give an approximate value. Sometimes this figure may be given at a specified frequency, e.g. 8 ohms at 1 KHz. Your 4 or 8 ohm speakers will work just fine with the various ATI amplifiers. There are no switches or settings that need to be adjusted for the particular impedance of your speaker. Just connect them and enjoy!
 

Does each amplifier module have its own power supply?

Each amplifier comes with two separate transformers. Each amplifier has its own power supply, i.e. bridge rectifiers, smoothing capacitors etc. These independent power supplies are fed from individual secondary windings from the transformers. This results in excellent channel separation, i.e. the individual channels do not "talk" to each other.
 

What type of AC plug comes on the end of the power cord and what amperage circuit do I need?

All of the 1800 and 2000 series amplifiers come with a regular 15 amp AC plug that plugs into a regular 15 amp house-hold wall receptacle. The 3000 series amplifiers come with 20 amp plug. However the 3002-3005 only require a regular 15 amp house-hold wall receptacle. The 3006 and 3007 require a 20 amp receptacle/circuit.
 

I notice that some of your amplifiers have balanced input. When would it be advisable to use the balanced inputs?

Only the 2000 and 3000 series amplifiers have balanced inputs in addition to single ended inputs (RCA). If you are like most folks where the amplifier and preamp will be within a short distance of each other and you will be using interconnect cables less than several tens of feet, then RCA cables will typically be just fine. If the cables are going to be several hundred feet long, then you may want to consider using the balanced inputs with the appropriate cables as this can help to reduce noise pickup on "long" cables.
 

How do I control the AT6012 multiroom amplifier and which wall plates/switches are you compatible with?

The AT6012 multiroom amplifier is controlled by a simple momentary rocker switch, such as the LevitonŽ 5657-2E. The switch is connected to the amplifier via a 3 conductor cable. The rocker switch (one switch per room) has the ability to increase and decrease the volume thus allowing each room to have its own independent volume control.
 

What kind of output trigger is provided on the processors to be able to turn on and off other devices such as power amplifiers?

A switched DC output is provided via a 3.5 mm (1/8") jack that becomes "live" with 12 volts when the processor is turned on and drops to 0 volts when the processor is turned off. This source of 12 volts DC would typically be used to turn an amplifier on and off. Make sure to use a mono (not stereo) 3.5 mm (1/8") plug to plug into the jack. The wires from the plug can be a small gauge (18 AWG to 26 AWG) as minimal current is involved. The wires would then connect to the device that is looking for this source of switched 12 volts DC, e.g. the input trigger on an ATI amplifier.
 

What kind of input trigger is provided on the amplifiers such that the amplifier can be turned on and off by other devices?

A 3.5 mm (1/8") input jack is provided that requires 12 volts DC to turn the amplifier on and 0 volts when the amplifier is to be turned off. This source of 12 volts DC would typically come from the output trigger of a preamplifier or processor. Make sure to use a mono (not stereo) 3.5 mm (1/8") plug to plug into the jack. The wires from the plug can be a small gauge (18 AWG to 26 AWG) as minimal current is involved. The wires would then connect back to the device that is providing the switched source of 12 volts DC, e.g. the output trigger from an ATI amplifier.

 

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